Zari (or Jari) is an even thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver used in traditional Indian, and Pakistani garments, especially as brocade in saris etc. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk to create intricate patterns. It is believed this tradition started during the Mughal era and the Surat pot being linked to the Haj pilgrims and Indians was a major factor for introducing this craft in India. During the Vedic ages, zari was associated with the grand attired of Gods, kings and literary figures. Today, in most fabrics, zari is not made of real gold and silver, but has cotton or polyester yarn at its core, wrapped by golden/silver metallic yarn.
Zari is the main material in most silk sarees and gharara. It is also used in other garments made of silk, like skirts, tops and veshtis.
Zari is traditionally used to embellish saris and dress materials. It is either woven with the fabric or can be used as a patch work separately (this is referred to as zardosi work).
Zari is a small sector, but it employs a large number of artisans and workers. Zari (golden thread) embroidery work used for the embellishment of fabrics has found admirers in overseas markets, as its export has risen significantly of late. Bareilly, one of the main centres of zari work, is attracting huge export opportunities, hovering around two billion Indian rupees annually.
The growth of the business can also be attributed to the widespread presence of the Indian diaspora that has been on the upsurge globally.